Day 30 Last Day

Flying out this morning, early start, what a great time not only in Paris but the whole trip has been fantastic.

To all those who have been part of this story we sincerely thank you, meri beaucoup, danke schon. GR8mate.

Especially thanks to Lucy, Aaron, Declan, Trish, Maeve, Deidre, Dermott, Brendan, Alice,(Family) in Ireland (Eire) and all the fun people we met in the Emerald Isle.

Eileen, Philip, Shannon, Eileen (Family) in Liverpool "Walk On with hope in your heart......."sorry your Evertonians

Bernadette, Sandra (Family) in London

Our friends on the road, Phil, Jonathan, Mark (Cotswolds) Anthony, Guy, Phil, Theresa in England

Erik, Stefanie, Theo, Kirsten, Jens, Stephan, Vareena and friends for all your love and support (Germany)

Numerous people on the road. Gendarmes, Mathew,Mike, Kevin, Jennifer, Johann, Manuel, Ian (Canada) Jurgen  and who can forget the Super Couple Joe & Eleanor

And Finally to Peter for the riding, good company, and the dream to make it a reality.
Regards
Peter and Paul

Peng confirming our flight details,,,Wistiti Peng

I asked the question in France about photos and what do the locals say.In France they don't say cheese or Fromage because the shape of the mouth when saying the letter Fr....isn't right.

This is what they say Wistiti......




Lei rang me from Italy to wish me well, thank you Lei next time we will catch up.
To Peng and Celine absolutely incredible, your warmth, love hospitality multiple languages and humour was greatly appreciated. Bon Voyage

The Metro..... this way to Line #9 Montrueil

The van was luxurious for two people, more suited for a family of 4-6, Two months old had 2500 klm on clock, we added another 3800 klm. 120 Euro per day. Fiat motor and chassis, Diesel, 10 lt/per 100 klm.
 3 tonne vehicle plus your own baggage.Our bikes and luggage limit for the plane was 30 kg each. No problem. 

rear sleeping

Front electric pull down Dbl bed from roof 

Middle section with shower & toilet

..

I can't remember are they your legs or mine after Tourmalet Peter?

We're clean we don't take nuffin Gov.......honest!












Arrived home at 12.30am 31st July a lovely welcome back from Sarah and Colette, and finally to all the family back in Australia who rang, Skyped me, Whats App....ed me, photos, laughs and watched out for me and updated me whilst on the road. Sarah, Colette, Donovan, Paul, Danielle, Sean, Rosemarie, Liam, Caitlin, Ryan, (Granchildren), Caleb, Niamh, Aiden, Stella, Tiarni, Cian, Grace, Amelia, & Chanelle  and all who read the blog and commented.

To my sister Clare who I dropped at the airport last night for her trip to England enjoy.

The Family

Day 29 Paris Monday Tourist Activities

Well our last full day in Paris, we walk and explore all the well known attractions that people identify with Paris. Here are a few..........

A very challenging roundabout to tackle, about the perimeter of the MCG on the outside, about a dozen roads converging into the one point.









The Blackpool Tower  sorry I was thinking of where I went to boarding school in England. The intention was to build a replica of the Eifel tower but ran out of funds so decided on a smaller model.

The famous Eifel on the right standing at over 1000 ft sounds higher in imperial measures, alright 324 mtrs .Built to celebrate the centennial of the French....., sounds like Evolution, what year? For the World Fair 1889

Had over 7 million visitors ascend to the summit in 2011, that's over 19000 per day 24/7. Needless to say there was a queue.. This liitle bunny is not waiting in line.Maybe next time.

The famous Blackpool Tower (only to English people) Built in 1894
Stands the same height as Koln Cathedral, yes go back to my earlier notes on Koln to find out how high this is.

I haven't been up this one either and I went to boarding school here for 5 years.

You know you can walk up to Mt William in the Grampians stand on the edge of a 3000 ft drop overlooking Ararat for free.....I know it's not Paris or Blackpool by the sea but.....

The National Academy of Music, and the Garnier Palace (Paris Opera). We saw a guy busking on the steps, 7 busts of people like Mozart, Beethoven, Liszt above, I am sure they were impressed.

This was a common sight in Paris, I do not know what mutual arrangements they have with each other, as to how you get out of this no matter how small your car is.

The Conciergerie of Paris formerly a prison, and part of the Royal Palace, now known as Palais de Justice. On the Ille de la Cite or Island of the City, or the same bit of land that Notre Dame is on in the middle of the Seine.

Last bit of shopping on the roof of La Fayette the well known shop in the Paris, well we bought a LaFayette bag here and shopped else where...at least I bought the bag in La Fayette Sarah!





The other end of the Louvre, Museum or former Palace of the Kings of France

The Last Supper for Peter and Myself, a little Italian restaurant and a Cafe we had breakfast in on the right. This is the Rue La Fayette and the shop is right down the end.

Day 28 Paris Champs-Elysees

Bikes have had their last ride in France ready for shipment back to Oz. Up and out early as Peng and Celine wish to show us more of Paris. The Metro is within easy walking distance and easy to use.Head down to the Seine River.

This would be for winter viewing not today 

A good way to have a quick snap shot of Paris is via the Bateaux-mouches, a water boat which takes around 70 mins along the Seine taking in many of the major sights and buildings around the city and also historical information.

The Seine in Paris is 350klm from the sea.

We walked around many streets and points of interest in this wonderful city. With Peng and Celine able to not only give us inside knowledge and points of interest that would not be on the normal tourist routes, but also places and shortcuts that as a visitor you would not generally see.

Open top for us today...

Time for lunch says Peng, tried Korean yesterday and now how about Japanese, any French restaurants in Paris Peng we haven't tried them? Although when we first arrived in Paris on Friday evening on our way to Germany with the motorhome, Celine had a dozen snails, not the little garden snails that you might visualise, but tropical size gems in their shells that you scoop out. I was contemplating whether to try some, but the brain, eyes and the taste buds just couldn't come to an agreement on the issue. I remember feeling the same about oysters when I first came to Australia. Maybe next time!

The happy couple

Yes this is the place where the big question was asked, how romantic, Paris, by the Seine,oui!

"Vuex-tu mepouser"    Asks Peng

"Oui,bien sur"  Says Celine

 The streets and sights of Paris, Rue La Fayette, Rue Saint Honore even sounds good.

I love the way all the streets come together  like this.

Make our way up the Champs-Elysees as the race will soon be entering Paris. Another warm day and the crowds are big but orderly and friendly.  We position ourselves  about mid point between the Luxor Obelisk on the Place de la Concorde (a gift from Egypt) and the Arc de Triomphe. The course that the riders take along the Champs-Elysees is approx 8 klm in length, so the riders pass by eight times. As we are positioning ourselves who do we see, non other than Clark Kent or Louise Lane, no sorry Joe and Eleanor from Yorkshire about 10 mtr from us. Amazing.

"We'll meet again,

 don't where don't know when,

but I know we'll meet again some sunny day."

Had a great time with Peng, Celine Joe and Eleanor and all the crowd down on the Champs-Elysees. After the race had finished, we wait approx an hour as all the teams, owners and mechanics etc. ride, drive and walk along the Champs-Elysees to the delight of the crowd.The Super Couple from Yorkshire have one last surprise for everyone, so they will be noticed.

Thanks Joe and Eleanor for the great company...three time on tour

All the tourist wanting to be photographed with them, Japanese, Belgiums, Greeks, Germans, even an Aussie!

TV crews and journalists gave them a wave and requested photos. 

Even the team director of Sky Dave Brailsford, stopped and came over, probably helped seeing as they had his face masks on.

After the party have a drink with Joe & Eleanor then Metro home.

NB. Bateaux-Mouches 13.50E, Meals Peng & Celine Merci! Beer 7E Metro 13.50E (10 Trips anywhere on metro)

Day 27 Bergerac-Perigueux

Up fairly early around 6.30am, shower and back on the road towards Koln which is 2 hours away. The roads in Belgium and Germany do not have tolls so this was easier on our pockets. Arrived in Kerpen to a warm greeting from Erik and Stefanie.Erik had loaned us the doonas and pillows so we returned these items. Danke Schon Erik.  

The famous duo...

Erik takes us to his home town close to Aachen

Erik's home church

Then out for lunch then time to catch the train to Paris.

Erik and Stefanie walk us to the station to bid farewell, till we meet again. One of the reasons we picked up the motorhome in Koln and not Paris is that it was 900 Euros cheaper for the same vehicle and the same company, but in the Koln office. Also I have always wanted to travel on the TGV. In this part of Europe they are operated through Thalys. Wow was I looking forward to this trip, over 400 klm from Koln stopping at Aachen, Brussels then Paris.

Beautiful Aachen

The Time Machine

Thanks once again Erik and Stefanie truly remarkable what you have done for us. 

These trains are quiet, smooth and fast. You realise how fast, when the times you are running alongside the Autobahn's, and from my previous notes whilst in Germany some of those were travelling at 200 klm, well we sailed past them all with ease, at about 325 klm. Free WiFi for 30 minutes, send all messages and photos talking on line with the family in Oz.Stop at Brussels add some more carriages and passengers and onto Paris. What a great way to travel. Come along way since Stephenson's Rocket.

Arrive in Paris Gare de Nord right on time at 4.00pm, counted the carriages 30 in total, it was 400 mtrs long! Peng and Celine meet us at the station and take as into Paris and show us around. 

This is the most beautiful city I have visited, the consistency and uniformity of buildings, layout of streets and boulevards, spectacular. While in Paris shop at La Fayette, everyone else does, a classy upmarket large shopping precinct.

Inside the famous La Fayette....

We visited the Louvre Palace where the Kings of France lived until LoiusXIV moved to the Palace of Versailles. It is now the National Museum. Peng and Celine took us to out to a Korean restaurant.. Magnifique!

The size of this palace is incredible phew!

Back to retire for the night and another big day tomorrow the final ride on the Champs-Elysees

NB TGV Koln-Paris 101Euro, shower 2Euro, Diesel 1.45 euro Lt (approx $2.20lt), Tolls Zero, Shopping La Fayette, secret men's business. (Zero) Oh! sorry Sarah I spent heaps on you.

Day 26 Maubourguet-Bergerac

The previous night we left Lourdes as we have a 1200 klm drive back to Koln via Paris to return the motorhome. At about 9.00pm  we pulled into an Autoroute stop to fill up with fuel before heading further. Filled up the vehicle, went inside to pay, very busy as these stations include shops, restaurant, truck and caravan stopovers, shower facilities, dump stations etc. So as I was turning to the two people behind me to ask is this where you pay for the petrol, I said, totally stunned, "Phil, Paul what are you doing here." Yes sure enough it was the voices of the Tour de France standing right next to me. Of course as the French TV use their own commentators no one recognised them but me.

The Voice of  TDF.....

I was talking to them in the queue for about four minutes. I asked them if they liked Australia and Paul replied "I do all my shopping in Australia," as he proudly showed me his R M.Williams jeans and boots. Phil was very interested in our story, about where we had been etc.Rushed back to the van to get my phone could hardly get the words out to Peter what was happening, rushed back and asked for this photo above.

When I show the picture to any of the English speaking world who take their commentary feed such as Canada, USA, England, Australia, NZ etc.they instantly know who they are.

We were on the road for most of the day passing Bordeaux, Royan, on the Atlantic coast, a popular seaside holiday resort for the French at the Gironde Estuary, the largest in Europe.Then past Poitiers, Tours, Orleans and into Paris.

Comment allez-vous Peng & Celine

We needed to come to Paris to drop off our bikes (As unable to take on TGV) and cases at my friends apartment in Montrueil about 10 klm from the centre of Paris.Arrived about 4.00pm. We met Peng and Celine unloaded our cargo have some refreshments then headed out for something to eat locally. It was great to see Peng who I had not seen since 2008 when he visited us in Australia. I had not met Celine who is now his wife, so it was lovely to see her. Peng and his brother Lei stayed with us in Australia, but Lei now lives in Italy with his family.

Listen to the band........This is Montrueil for tea

After a wonderful evening we headed off at 10.30pm towards Germany. We passed through the Somme, into Belgium via Charleroi and stopped about 1.30am near Liege in Belgium Motorway stopover.

Tolls for the day from Lourdes to the Belgium border 170 Euro

Day 25 Pau-Hautacam

We enjoyed our stop in the Helios Hotel, free WiFi, early 20th century style accommodation. checked out of the hotel early morning to get ready to see the TDF on Hautacam. 

Open the shutters and 'Room with a view'....

An interesting history of Lourdes, it is located in the foothills of the Pyrenees at 420 mtrs with the surrounding hills rising to 1000 mtr. The fast flowing river Gave de Pau running through the town. During the 8th century the fort in Lourdes became a focus for skirmishes between Mirat a local leader and Charlemagne King of the Franks. Remember him from my earlier writings where his throne is in Aachen,(Germany) he had a big kingdom. Mirat after surrendering to Charlemagne converted to Christianity and changed his name to Lorus, where the town of Lourdes comes from. You may remember the famous hundred years war between France & England, well this town was given to England in 1360 AD, then recaptured by the French in 1405 AD.

Helios hotel on right the Fort in centre

Headed south out of the town and met Mike and Kevin (son) from California riding fold up bikes (Friday). Check them out on line Chain Reaction Bicycles, (not the on line order group UK).They not only have the bike business in the states but run cycle tours and visit the TDF frequently. They also were familiar with the bike path we were on for 20 klm which keeps us off the main road and followed the river up the valley. A great ride to the base of Hautacam. Do not be deceived by men riding fold up bikes, if you have the legs you can impress on anything.We had the top of the range bikes so we couldn't let them sail past us, they also had big backpacks. We had to pretend we were taking it easy on 35 klm/hr. Thanks for the ride and company.

Looking back along the valley towards Lourdes

Reached the base of Hautacam where the TDF riders will ascend after climbing up and over Tourmalet. The Spanish presence is noticeable and are calling for Valverde.

For some reason I thought this was a similar climb to Mt Dandenong about 600 mtr and 7-8 klm in length, how deflating when you realise it is almost as steep as Tourmalet and 16 klm in length. A few false flats at 5-7% then most @ 9-10%. I wasn't expecting this! Toughen up Paul! Yea but mentally I was thinking an easier climb. 

1 Klm mark Hautacam

 As we approached the top the clouds was hovering and it was noticeably cooler.Rolled down to find a spot inside the 2 klm mark. Hautacam is 1635 mtr.

Time to push out the Zzzzzzz........he's had a hard day!

Rode all the serious climbs in my new Alpe d'Huez outfit, the air I breathed in the Alps & Pyrenees and sweat expired through the body is in the DNA of this fabric now.

Had a wonderful vociferous Norwegian group opposite singing away, a clear view down the valley enables us to see when the caravan and riders are approaching  below. You know the riders are close when first the high level aircraft at about 4000 mtr circle overhead, they take the communication link which is transmitted by the helicopters who arrive in Vietnam style military convoy close to the hillside. There are five in all branching off to film the beautiful images we receive around the globe.

The Caraven procession

Thomas Voeckler

Nibali

Liam calls from Australia re our position so he can watch out for us. The Caravan is in full flight and noisy, he asks if there is a party going on.

We hear from the Norwegian group that Nibali has broken away and will almost certainly secure the TDF Maillot Jaune in Paris.

An interesting part of the tour when it finished on Hautacam was that the riders, as part of their warm down routine start to descend to the bottom, and as soon as the Marshall car passes indicating the last rider all the walkers and pedestrians are allowed on the road. 

There were all these nutters riding down following the TDF Riders to the bottom weaving in and out of pedestrians pretending they weren't really following the team riders to the base in complete synchronisation, and all bunched together. Talk about stupid and dangerous. We enjoyed it didn't we Peter, oh is that why they had those little numbers on the back of the seat post. I didn't know they were TDF riders.I was following numbers 16/164/156, who were you following Peter? The Gendarmes encouraging everyone to slow down. 

Reached the bottom and cars have no chance of right of way, bikes have the priority as the Gendarmes guide us to the bike paths and home to Lourdes as we want to make progress tonight on the way back to Koln and return the motorhome.

Happy Anniversary Sarah, now what has been harder Hautacam or ........missing you.

Day 24 St Gaudens-Pla D'Adept

This was going to be a big day in the mountains, The Col Du Tourmalet. Headed off for the climb from Bagneres-de-Bigorre to the summit @ 2115 mts. We know this is a tough one by the statistics for the route. A steady 3-5% gradient all the way out to the base, another beautiful day, and magnificent countryside. The official base of the climb is 17 klm from the top which starts in Saint-Marie de Campan. It's 9% plus all the way to the top, relentless and no false flats or relief, just up! up! up!.

Saint-Marie de Campan..the start

As if you do not know this is an enjoyable but tough ride. On French mountains they all have signs every Klm which indicate how far from the top, the current elevation and the gradient for the next Klm.

Trees for most of the early climbing, no clear view ahead of the top, keeping a steady tempo with two higher gears in reserve in case I need to spin the legs later. Lots of people a steady stream of traffic all the way up but not threatening and motorhomes taking every available spot.The TDF Riders are not climbing till the next day. People have been on the mountain for days.

Not many switchbacks, just up and around the contours of the mountain. Hit the first of many snow shelters that cover the road, we're just focusing on the gear ratio, tempo and heart rate, a steady 165 bpm. As we come through another snow cover over the road, I hear a voice call out "Come on Ripon," blimey who knows me out here on the Tourmalet, wow! it's Joe and Eleanor from Yorkshire who we had met earlier on Echallon. What a lovely surprise. Stop have a chat then Eleanor asks us if we would like some lunch, sure would after climbing for 12 klm and 5 klm to go this is an excellent opportunity to have a break.

Joe & Eleanor

Yorkshire hospitality what can I say, time for lunch.........

After a welcome beak and lunch it's time to keep rolling 10% all the way now, this next stage goes through the village of La Mongie, but wait there is still another 4 klm to the top, how disheartening. But the trees are behind us now and the views are wonderful and the pass at the top is in the distance. The observatory at the top is 2877 mtr (Pic Du Midi Bigorre). The crowds are huge so that in itself makes you keep going as they shout Allai! Allai! Allai! so you don't want to disappoint.I may have to pull out that reserve gear Peter! There isn't any I have already used it! Just pretend to the crowd your cruising.

Reach the pass at Tourmalet and you are not disappointed, the views on the western side towards Luz-Saint Sauveur shows many swithbacks near the summit and long runs on the edge of the mountain, I will be back to ride from this direction next time. A similar gradient but 2 klm longer hmmmm! You are only about 10 klm from Spain at this pass.

Under the statue of Octave Lapize

Time for refreshments, although there is a small pub at this point we decide to sample a hot dog and a small can of coke...10Euro $16, nearly choked, thank goodness I didn't ask for onions!

Peter crossing the line.....

For the skiers this would be a great venue in the winter, La Mongie is a bustling village. Time to roll back down, mountain cattle sauntering across the road, Swiss bells can be heard around the valley, ski lifts silent. A quick hello , goodbye to Joe and Eleanor, whose other family members have arrived for the race.

Once we are through the vehicles and crowds on the mountain we make a fast getaway back to Bagneres-de-Bigorre, then it's time to move onto Lourdes where we have booked a night in a hotel. Lourdes is close so the trip is short. We arrive early evening. Bon Soiree. McDonald's on the right as you enter town, point noted for WiFi communication and a McFlurry, then a short distance to the Helios Hotel.

A walk down town a few ales and a food. This is a very inviting town. This is famous pilgrimage market town at the foot of the Pyrenees, where the apparition of Our Lady appeared to Bernadette in 1858. Apart from the tacky tourist shops it is beautiful, interesting and full of history.

Day 23 Carcassone-Bagneres-De-Luchon

Normal start to the day, update info at McDonalds, buy some supplies to make lunch as we are heading out of St Giron to Col de Portet d'Aspet a category 3 climb KOM. we knew we had left our run too late pretty early as the Gendarmarie were cautioning us early and progressively more sternly as we progressed. Some were tolerant others asking us to walk, then the usual out of sight from the Gendarmarie and ride, but with the number of villages along the route it was becoming difficult to make much progress until the motorcycle Gendarmarie spoke in French I don't know what he said but it was clear this was the end of the line.

Salat River St Giron

St Giron

Peter has a plan to take us on some back roads and he will use Google Maps on his phone. I like this idea and we make good progress through lovely mountain villages such as Castillon-En-Couserans, but the roads turned into small road which turned into lane ways then rocks and gravel. ( I didn't think we were going mountain bike riding!). It was very beautiful, off the main road, very hilly, ( the gradient reached 19% in some places) peaceful and no one about. Then those thoughts enter your consciousness if you are going in the right direction. Met a mature age couple hiking, they couldn't speak English, we couldn't speak French.

On the way before we took alternate route

Surprisingly after 5 mins we understood their message (Aah the schoolboy french), Un..Salsein, .indicates a right turn, Deux...Sor, again right turn, Trois...Argein right turn,  good news we were going in the right direction. Got to Argein, Peter finds another route, this time it is mountain bike terrain some parts 9%. Its a fine line holding your balance and positioning yourself on the bike so you don't loose traction and momentum as the wheels start to spin up this little dirt road.

But this was the end of the road as we descended back onto the main route where the TDF would pass, so time to position ourselves on a sweeping corner 7 klm from our intended destination, a great effort by Peter to navigate us this distance.

Argein

It is amazing what you can communicate to each other with Charades type gestures. They understood that the stars on our flag was the southern cross only visible in the southern hemisphere, and what part of Australia we were from. We understood that he knew the Australian rider Richie Porte, and  gesturing door, as La Porte means the door in French. I like this way of communicating with each other, it's creative and fun.

Again we managed to make the TV as the race swept by. We powered back home to St Giron, drove onto Bagneres-de-Bigorre and camped by the River L'Adour, which runs through the town and happens to have a Slalom canoe course right beside us.

Bagneres-de-Bigorre, Slalom, L'Adour River

Sport Minister sign. We can close any road